Sunday, August 7, 2011

Dipping Projects

Determined to use the quickest method to get figures ready for games, I managed to get two projects knocked out today. One being the Wargames Factory Numidian Light Infanty; the other an Old Glory French Artillery Train set. Here they are fresh from getting a dip in Miniwax Tudor Stain:
This is right after I gave them all a very basic block paint job. In fact, a pretty big brush was used for most of it; only used a smaller brush for some areas of the French Artillery Train guys.
After they're completely dried - at least 24 hours; I'll hit them with a dull coat spray and finish basing/flocking them.

13 comments:

  1. Hi Dean. I like the look of your Numidian Light Infanty. The dip method certainly seems to be a quick way to do some units. I've been thinking I need to order two boxes of these troops to go with some Old Glory Calvary and some unknown make 25mm elephants that I have.

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  2. Thanks for the comment, Robert. I think the dip goes well with this set. The musculature of the arms & legs, as well as the folds in the tunic are well sculpted and lend themselves well to dipping. Also, they are very simply attired and armed, so minimal colors are needed to begin with. Best, Dean

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  3. It is amazing the effect a dip has on figures, it really brings them to life. Nice one!

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  4. I've had only bad experiences with dipping myself but your work looks pretty fine!

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  5. Dips are great and help so much, they look fine.

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  6. Thanks for the before and afters, that worked a treat. Very impressed.

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  7. One word of caution is to watch for areas where the stain pools too much. This is usually at the lower portions of the figure; i.e. legs & feet. If the pooling isn't thinned early on (with a dab of a brush), the stain will dry and harden like that. Best, Dean

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  8. Great looking figs...dip method works well, I might try that.

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  9. Nice work and no question dipping has allowed me to finish a few things I never would have painting my normal way. I just divide up my projects into dip and non-dip and this way I actually get some things finished!

    Christopher

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  10. Did you use a furniture stain, or one of the commercial figure dips eg. Army Painter? (sorry, I'm not familiar with the brand)

    I prefer to brush the stain on as I can control how much is applied and where it goes. I've had too many bad experiences with it pooling.

    Yours have turned out very nicely. Great work!

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  11. Rosbif: I used a stain marketed for furniture/wood. The brand name is Miniwax Polyshades - the color I used was "Tudor Stain." This seems to be the preference for most, but there are many other shades. It's about 1/2 the price of Army Painter (I think). If you find it, just make sure you get the polyurethane version, not the oil-based one (very messy & takes eons to dry - if ever completely). Best, Dean

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  12. I've used minwax - I really like the way it turned out. It may become my preferred method of shading my 6mm WWII.

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  13. 6mm? Whoah, I'll have to see your work. Someone asked me the other day if it would work on 15mm - which of course. Best, Dean

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