I couldn't wait to finish painting (or even start on) the horses, before going on to putting the riders together.
Besides the officer and bugler on the command sprue, there are four identical sprues with three riders. All have several types of heads and headgear. There are three types of bell-topped shakos - one with the diamond plate, one with the earlier large tricolor cockade, and one enclosed in a campaign cover. The first two types have tall feathered plumes, cords and raquettes. The campaign one has a ball pompom. There is also heads wearing the mirliton, the later (post-1812) cylindrical shako, and finally the elite type with colpack. There are three torsos, separate right arms brandishing sabers, pelisses, and two choices of legs - one in full dress breeches and boots, the other in campaign trousers. Separate sabretache/scabbard pieces complete each sprue. Here is one of these sprues.
The next photo shows the basic components (less the sabretache/scabbard piece) for each rider. This particular head choice is the elite type wearing the colpack.
I chose to have the officer, bugler and six elites (with colpacks) in full-dress. That is, with breeches and boots. The remaining six troopers are wearing campaign trousers with buttons down the sides (as well as a stripe). All have pelisses slung over their left shoulders. Note the illustration of the 9th Hussars trooper in the foreground of the page on the right. The book is Uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars by Jack Cassin-Scott. My mom bought me this book when I was a kid and I've kept it ever since. Still very inspirational after all these years.
Speaking of the 9th Hussars, this is the regiment that I plan to paint these guys as - always liked them since seeing that illustration above. Apparently it is a popular unit as the Perrys chose to use it as the artwork for their box. It is also used on a set of Revell 1/72nd figures - see the picture below.
I posted a question (more like a testing of the waters) on TMP about decals or transfers for sabretaches. It was met with a fair amount of like-mindedness. A generous TMP member, Paleovento (Aldo from Veneto, Italy) posted a link of sabretaches designs he made for these very models - go to the bottom of the post and see his beautiful work. I plan to print out the ones for the 9th and glue them on; this will spare me much heartache and wasted time. Also, Steve at LBMS PM'd me on TMP after seeing the post, and said he is working on the very thing right now - he was kind of surprised I posted that and thought I was a mind-reader. I wish. So, if you rather not hand-paint sabretaches (and who really would), you have two choices, one is available right now thanks to Aldo, or you can wait for the one from LBMS - which I am sure will be quite beautifully done too.
Decals would be very cool but you could easily paint the sabretaches too. It IS fiddly, but no more so than many other bits of hussar! I notice the sheet that comes with the box gives a pretty good readout of all the hussar regiments and even the Honour Guard if you wanted to do them. I have to say that they and the Ospreys are the best on French hussars unless you're fortunate enough (like me) to have the old Historex guide - then all you have do is translate the colours from French! I'm finishing my dragoons at present so I'll watch what you do with the hussars with eager anticipation!
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Doc
Doc:
ReplyDeleteI'm going to give the ones Aldo made a try first, before trying it on my own. I think it should work. The surface of the sabretache is flat. I have to say the figures do feel very sturdy. In fact, I've dropped them several times with no ill-effects. I like these plastics, and think they'll hold up to gaming very well. Regards, Dean
i might have to try those perry figures, just not sure about plastic... is it the same as painting metals? and do you know anything about "washes"..
ReplyDelete-aaron
Aaron:
ReplyDeleteI don't think they're much different than metals. Once they're primed it should be exactly the same as painting metals. I think the only thing I'm aware of is you shouldn't take a blow-dryer with heat on to dry them faster. You could get away with this with metals. The plastic might warp from the heat. I use washes, but mainly for shading. I don't use the dip method either. Tried it once, but didn't like the results. Dean
oooh.... yeah i thought soo, usually i see the primers gives a "grip" for the paint, so there can't be much of a difference... i saw on your blog these thracian javelinmen, i'm absolutely in love with them, what are your steps in painting? and what paints do you generally use?
ReplyDelete-aaron
Aaron:
ReplyDeleteThanks for your kind words; the Thracians were primed in white and then I used Vallejo Medium Flesh mixed with a little bit of white. Then a wash of Vallejo Reddish Brown Ink/Stain was applied. After this, I went back with some Flesh+White over highlights. Muted colors were used for the cloaks and tunics & geometric patterns. I really like Vallejo - however, I've yet to try other paints like Foundry, etc. - which I'm sure are just as good. I also use some craft store paints - not as good as Vallejo in coverage though. Dean